Polica: The Most Fertile Part of the Berane Region

Events during the second half of the 17th century would drastically mark life in these regions, leaving deep traces in the history and fate of the local population. Two wars—the Cretan War (1645–1669) and the Great Turkish War (1683–1699)—along with the active support of the Christian population for Venice, the Habsburg Monarchy, and Russia, provoked a strong reaction from the Ottoman Empire. This support led to fierce retaliation from the Porte, resulting in mass migrations, the flight of the people, and a redirection of life toward the northern areas of the Balkans, where they sought safety and a fresh start.

During the Cretan War, the Budim Metropolitan Pajsije Kolašinović took a bold step by entering secret negotiations with papal envoys. His goal was to organize a joint struggle against the Ottomans, but this plan did not remain hidden for long. The Ottomans discovered it, and in 1648, the metropolitan met a tragic end, killed for his efforts. Following this event, the Turkish authorities launched a merciless reprisal—the people suffered, and the church in Šudikova was destroyed, leaving behind desolation and sorrow.

The first, and especially the second wave of migrations under the patriarchs of the Čarnojević family, marked a turning point for the people of Polica, forcing them to emigrate and flee to the territories of the Habsburg Monarchy and the Republic of Venice. Throughout the 18th century, this area turned into a desolate, neglected, and ruined place, where former homes and hearths stood abandoned. Nearly an entire century passed before families from Vasojevići and central Montenegro decided to return. Gradually, they began to resettle and inhabit the deserted, overgrown hearths of Polica and its surroundings, breathing new life into the region.

The symbol of the forced departure and the uprooting of the people became the ruined church near the Goražde cemetery, beside which stands a sacred oak as a silent witness to the past. In 1998, its restoration began, bringing hope and a new beginning. On the old foundations of the Nemanjić church, the Church of the Holy Trinity was solemnly consecrated in 2001. This restoration restored spiritual peace to Polica, easing the painful memories of the time of great national suffering and marking a reconciliation with a difficult past.

From Jejevica, a magnificent view stretches over Berane and the Lim Valley – a space where nature, history, and life have intertwined through millennia.

Berane, situated in the heart of this fertile basin, testifies to human presence for more than three thousand years. From prehistoric settlements and Roman fortifications to Ottoman rule and struggles for freedom, this town has always been a crossroads of cultures and events that have shaped its identity. Here, trade routes met, peoples intermingled, and stories of survival and new beginnings emerged.

The basin, through which the Lim River meanders, is bordered by the mighty mountains of Bjelasica, Komovi, and Prokletije, whose high peaks can be seen from this vantage point on a clear day. These mountains are not just a natural boundary but also guardians of history and tradition. For centuries, shepherds have lived in their highland pastures, passing down knowledge and customs from generation to generation. Today, they are a paradise for hikers, nature enthusiasts, and those who wish to feel the peace and strength of an untouched landscape.

Jeevica is not only a window to the past but also a meeting point with adventure. As one of the most famous paragliding launch sites in the region, it offers an unforgettable experience of free flight above a landscape where centuries converge. From this launch site, traditional paragliding competitions are now held, attracting adventurers from across the region and beyond.

Stand still, listen, and feel the spirit of this place – where the gaze reaches far, and history speaks through the silence of the wind.

A high, inaccessible rock at 850 meters above sea level provided safety and protection to the communities living nearby as early as the Bronze and Iron Ages. In the third century, during the period of Roman rule, a circular fortification was erected here, featuring two parallel walls, each 1.8 meters thick, enclosing an area of one hectare. Alongside Tumbarica, in the Berane Basin, this site—known as Gradina—served as a vantage point for controlling and monitoring the communication routes that ran through the Polimlje region toward the central Balkans and the province of Prevalis, with a particularly significant route leading to Skadar (Scodra). When reflecting on the Roman Empire, it’s worth remembering that roads were one of its greatest contributions to civilization.

With the expansion of Roman urbanization policies from the coast into the interior of the province, military fortifications (castra) and civilian villas began to emerge in the northern part of present-day Montenegro during this period. In the Berane Basin, remnants of a military castrum and an urban villa have been discovered at the sites of Lužac and Budimlja. Gradac was one of several fortifications that protected this Roman population from the urbanized areas, serving as a defense against plundering raids or during times of instability.

It is believed that the fortification was damaged and abandoned during the Gothic incursions, only to be likely restored during Justinian’s Byzantine renewal (reign from 527 to 565) with the construction of outer ramparts on the northern side. Archaeological finds—including everyday pottery such as pots and bowls, iron arrowheads, various tools, bronze coins, knives, and agricultural implements—date back to the 5th and 6th centuries.

Life appears to have continued until the arrival and settlement of the Slavs in the late 6th and early 7th centuries CE, when Gradac was burned down, as evidenced by a layer of soot and ash found in the excavated structure.

Rural Household Kastratović
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*Listed are rural households that are members of our association and are featured on this site. For other accommodation providers in this area, check Google Maps or Booking.com.

HIKING: On foot or partially motorized, it’s up to you how you’ll reach the Gradac fortress through the forest. A story awaits you there, along with an unforgettable 360° view.

CYCLING AND MOTORBIKING: The Polica plateau is perfect for enjoying the wind and a flat road.

PARAGLIDING: Jajevica features a well-known paragliding launch site. In May, the traditional memorial cup “Slavko Šćekić” is held.

PARTICIPATING IN FOLK FAIRS: “Harvest Days on Polica” – a celebration and a delight for the eyes and tables, an event that preserves tradition and honors the new grain and autumn fruits, held at the end of August. As part of the event, the best flatbread is chosen. “Polica Flatbread” celebrates grain and bread, where hardworking housewives showcase the culinary traditions of the Berane region.