Konjuhe: Authentic Rural Experience

THE SCHOOL IN GORNJI VASOJEVIĆI

With the annexation of Gornji Vasojevići to the Principality of Montenegro during the 19th century, conditions were created for the revival of education, which had completely disappeared under Ottoman rule. After the first secular school in Montenegro was opened in Cetinje in 1834, a school was established in Kralje in 1858. Just a year later, it was relocated to Konjuhe, in the village of Košutiće, where it became known as the “Vasojević University.”

This school was not just a place where children learned to read and write, but they also acquired military skills such as fencing, wrestling, and gymnastics. Students were also taught the basics of public speaking, which was of great importance in the society of that time. Many of the school’s graduates later became distinguished educators, judges, officers, and military leaders, contributing to Montenegro’s development during the turbulent years that followed.

The first teacher was Priest Miloš Vuković, born in 1835 in Košutiće. He was educated in theological and teaching schools in Serbia and Petrograd (Russia), and upon returning to his homeland, he became a symbol of education beneath the Komovi mountains. He is remembered for his wise sayings, such as: “If you want to be a branch, pray to God to be a tree,” and “Frost does not fall to break the tree, but to wither the leaves.” Priest Miloš Vuković is buried in the courtyard of the village church in Konjuhe, where locals still pay their respects to him today.

THE CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION OF THE LORD

In addition to education, the princely government also supported the construction of churches in Gornji Vasojevići. On the initiative of Prince Nikola, in 1892, Metropolitan Mitrofan Ban gave his blessing for the construction of the Church of the Ascension of the Lord in Konjuhe. Built in the traditional Montenegrin style of the time, this church soon became the spiritual and cultural center of the region.

The church served not only as a place of worship but also as a gathering place for villagers, where important decisions were made and folk traditions were preserved. Throughout turbulent historical events, it endured as a symbol of Vasojević spirituality and identity. Today, the Church of the Ascension of the Lord in Konjuhe is considered one of the most significant cultural monuments in the area, and the locals continue to cherish its role in preserving faith and tradition.

In 2005 and 2008, the Polim Museum from Berane conducted an archaeological excavation of the remains of a monastery complex, located 250 meters uphill from here. Based on modest but exceptionally valuable remains, it was determined that this is one of the oldest churches in the Polimlje region. Both churches were built before or during the arrival of the Slavs in the Balkans (6th or 7th century), when these areas belonged to the Eastern Roman Empire (Byzantium) and were inhabited by Illyrian tribes. Based on the tombs inside and outside the small church and the remains of church furniture found in them, it is concluded that the small church was the endowment of a prominent landowner of that time.

The continuity of monastic life is evidenced by the remains of the narthex of the small church, most likely built in the 9th century, and a book (record) from “Čečevo” from 1344, written by Smilj Dabižov Vasilije, a falconer who later became a monk in this monastery in Košutići. The monastery and the Church of the Ascension of the Lord are mentioned as a Dečani metochion in the Dečani chrysobull. In the record of the monk Smilj, spanning 80 pages, he speaks about the princes from Košutići and three Slavic tribes that came to Debrec (the area from Plav to the village of Budimlja), which the duke Vladislav “united into one being.”

The Čečevo Monastery and the caravan route passing by it, as well as numerous toponyms in this area containing the word “car” (emperor), are linked in legends to Emperor Dušan Nemanjić, the Serbian ruler (1331-1355). Folk tales speak of caravans carrying his treasure and gold passing along these routes and of him personally staying in the monastery lodgings.

The hamlet of Košutići got its poetic name from the hinds that once roamed the forests around the monastery.

In an effort to preserve the continuity of 15 centuries of existence, a church was built on the remains of the early Christian monastery.

You are standing in front of the last watermill in the Potkomovlje region, where, albeit rarely, corn kernels are still ground into fine yellow powder used to make the famous Vasojević kolobotnjica. This grain mill has existed since 1938. It was built by the esteemed host Milić Đerković, who left it as a legacy to his sons and grandchildren. His grandson Dragan has not forgotten this legacy—he still takes care of the mill, maintains it, and occasionally sets its stone in motion, just as it once ground tons of the finest flour. The sound of the millstone and the murmuring stream were once an essential part of daily life in this area, and the scent of freshly ground flour filled the valley.

When the Slavs settled these fertile mountainous lands and valleys in the 6th century, they named the river after their supreme deity, Perun—hence Perućica. To them, it was powerful and mighty, just like the ruler of the sky and thunder. In the past, up until shortly after World War II, there were numerous watermills along its banks. They operated at full capacity, and milling appointments had to be scheduled in advance. In those post-war years, millers took a five percent share of the ground flour as payment, while today, Dragan is willing to grind for free, just to keep the mill from rusting.

Once, every inch of arable land in the villages below Komovi was cultivated. In addition to corn, white grains—wheat, rye, barley, and oats—were grown. These crops sustained families, providing bread, porridge, and pies that were the foundation of their diet. This mill stands as a monument, a silent witness to times when countless generations were raised on bread made from grain ground in the Đerković watermill. Today, as fewer people engage in agriculture and old skills fade into history, this mill remains a reminder of the perseverance and dedication of our ancestors.

The sound of water driving the millstone and the scent of freshly ground flour transport us back in time—to an era when life was simpler, yet filled with community and hard work. If you want to experience the spirit of the past, visit this mill, listen to its whisper, and feel the connection to a tradition that is slowly disappearing.

If you would like to visit the mill, you can contact Dragan Đerković at +382 69 536 027.

After crossing this bridge, you arrive in Japan – the village that first sees the sun as it rises above the Komovi mountains. In spring, the mountain meadows come to life under the cherry blossoms, giving the village a unique poetic charm. Anyone who hears about this unusual village is eager to learn how it got its name.

One explanation dates back to the Middle Ages when the village was part of the Nemanjic state and belonged to the Visoki Decani monastery. It is believed that the name Japan originates from the Latin term “iapanus,” which referred to a župan or frontier governor.

Another story comes from the time of the Kingdom of Montenegro. Standard-bearer Samilo Fatic, a brave fighter in the war against Austria-Hungary, once asked King Nikola to help his village get access to water. To explain where the village was located, he said: “It is far in the middle of nowhere, Sire, just like Japan.”

Interestingly, Montenegro formally declared war on Japan in 1904, in support of Russia during the Russo-Japanese conflict over Manchuria and Korea. However, this war remained only on paper for Montenegro. It was not until 2008 that a peace treaty was officially signed in Podgorica, ending one of the longest wars in history.

Due to its unusual name, the village of Japan was visited in 2008 by the non-resident Japanese ambassador to Montenegro, Tadashi Nagai, accompanied by Japanese journalists. They took the story of the namesake village back to their homeland. Earlier, a group of students from the University of Tokyo had also visited the area and gifted a Japanese translation of “The Mountain Wreath” to the local school.

When Japan was struck by a devastating earthquake and tsunami in 2011, the Government of Montenegro, in addition to state aid, symbolically sent €10,000 in the name of the village of Japan, expressing solidarity with the distant but friendly country.

Hostel Mojan is located in a former border post that once guarded the frontier between Yugoslavia and Albania. After years of neglect, it was renovated with European Union funds and transformed into an attractive tourist destination. Within the hostel’s grounds, 50 Japanese cherry trees were planted, a gift from the Honorary Consulate of Montenegro in Japan to mark the tenth anniversary of Montenegro’s independence. Today, Hostel Mojan is the perfect starting point for exploring the unspoiled nature of the region. From Mojan, trails lead to the peaks of Komovi, Mojan, Žijevo, and Asanac. These mountain routes offer breathtaking landscapes and are ideal for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. After hiking, visitors can enjoy traditional village cuisine made from local ingredients.

WILD GARLIC DAYS AND TRADITIONAL CUISINE

The “Wild Garlic Days and Traditional Cuisine” festival is held at Hostel Mojan in Jošanica. Organized by Komovi Nature Park, the Municipality of Andrijevica, and the local community of Konjuhe, the event promotes traditional cuisine and customs. Visitors can enjoy a rich program and taste healthy dishes enriched with wild garlic, the symbolic plant of the festival. This event encourages eco-tourism and helps preserve the natural treasures of the region.

WILD GARLIC – A GIFT OF NATURE

In spring, the forests of this region are covered with wild garlic (Allium ursinum), also known as “bear garlic.” According to folklore, bears seek it first after hibernation to cleanse their bodies and regain strength. This wild, edible plant has exceptional medicinal properties and thrives only in pristine mountain environments. If transplanted, it struggles to adapt to a new habitat. Foragers must be cautious, as wild garlic can easily be mistaken for two toxic plants – autumn crocus and lily of the valley. Though visually similar, their key difference is in the scent – wild garlic has a strong aroma of garlic. Its medicinal benefits and unique taste make it an essential part of local cuisine and traditional medicine. Visiting this region in spring is the perfect opportunity to discover the wonders of this remarkable plant.

*Listed are rural households that are members of our association and are featured on this site. For other accommodation providers in this area, check Google Maps or Booking.com.

• ZELETIN CIRCLE
• JAPAN – VELIKI MOJAN
• JAPAN – RAVNI -MOJAN – MOJANSKA RIJEKA – JAPAN
• KOMOVI CIRCLE
• JAPAN – RAVNI – ĐUROVICA – ŽIJEVA GLAVA
• MONT ASANAC: SILJEVA GLAVA AND BIOGRAD
• JAPAN – MOJAN – ZABEL (MAJA E ZABELIT)
• JAPAN – KONJIC – VASOJEVIĆKI VRH